"EN ESPAÑA, TENEMOS UNA ARRAIGADA DELICADEZA EN LA TIERRA Y EN LAS TRADICIONES". "¡¡HACIENDO ESPAÑA!!".
"In Spain, a Delicacy Rooted,
in Earth and Tradition".
"Joselito uses only hogs that are 100 percent Iberian. A whole leg, aged three years, starts at $1,000 in Spain, about $50 a pound. "Not all hams called Ibérico are acorn-fed. The label must include the word bellota".
"In spite of so much tantalizing talk amid mesmerizing rows of sweet-smelling hams, no amuse-bouche was offered, and we left with empty stomachs. It was only later, savoring our memorable dinner in Cáceres, that we quelled our cravings".
"After a good night’s rest at the NH Palacio de Oquendo, a renovated 16th-century palace in the old quarter, we had breakfast alfresco on the edge of the main plaza. Nothing beats a good cortado, the strong Spanish coffee, before a long drive".
"The curvy, oak-lined southern roads led us to Jabugo, a village of plain white houses that lives and breathes jamón. There I met Maximiliano Portes, who in 2002 created the online brand Maximiliano Jabugo".
"His customers, he said, are everyday people who order airtight, pre-sliced cold cuts. Modern marketing notwithstanding, the only way to achieve high quality is through a slow, artisanal curing process".
"Mr. Portes’s hams hang in a thick-walled cellar, where meat has been cured since 1900. In fact, Jabugo’s quiet cobblestone streets, dotted with modest bars where local workers meet for afternoon drinks, showed no signs of modernity".
"As we headed back north to Badajoz, a heavy rain slowed us. By the time we reached Rocamador, a rural hotel and restaurant in a 500-year-old former monastery, it was 11 p.m. and our stomachs were growling. Thanks to the Spanish custom of late dining, the kitchen was still open.
"Though I was tempted by pork cheeks in a creamy vegetable sauce, for a change of pace I ordered thyme-seasoned suckling lamb with roasted potatoes. A glass of hearty Extremadura red was the perfect complement. Back in my country-chic room, aided by a lullaby of rattling leaves, I fell into a deep sleep".
"In the morning I met Carlos Tristancho, owner of the hotel and surrounding land. He is a partner at País de Quercus, a company that sells organic meats to distinguished restaurants like Mugaritz and El Celler de Can Roca".
"A former actor, director and producer, Mr. Tristancho is an irrepressible, middle-age character who talks about love, sex and the soul the way most people discuss the weather".
"During a rambling and wildly entertaining conversation, he spoke passionately of the importance of preserving Spain’s estimated seven million acres of dehesa. "This is an example of sustainability; some of the oaks here are 1,000 years old", he said. Ideally, each animal needs six acres to roam, he said; if this balance is not respected, the ecosystem could be in danger".
"Soon we were headed to Madrid, laughing about how we had blushed at Mr. Tristancho’s bawdy comments. But while our road trip was ending, my food quest persisted. For various reasons, I had not yet sampled a Joselito ham; I knew I could not leave Spain until I had".
"A few hours before my flight to New York, I walked to a gourmet shop on upscale Serrano Street. The man behind the counter carefully carved a few slices with a long knife and handed me a bite. He raised his eyebrows inquisitively".
"A pungent, slightly sweet and nutty flavor filled my mouth as the fat immediately melted away, revealing sea-salted, tender strings of meat. I can still taste it if I close my eyes".
"BENEATH THE OAKS".
"GETTING THERE".
"Iberia, Continental Airlines, Air Europa and other carriers have nonstop flights from New York to Madrid. A recent Web search found fares starting at about $550 for February flights. The best way to see the area is by car; rental companies like Hertz and Avis have branches at the airport and at Madrid locations".
"WHERE TO STAY".
"In Salamanca, Room Mate Vega "Plaza del Mercado 16; 34-92-327-2250; www.room-matehotels.com", is a stylish, moderately priced hotel just steps from the Plaza Mayor. Doubles from 60 euros "about $85 at $1.40 to the euro".
"In Cáceres, the centrally located NH Palacio de Oquendo "Plaza San Juan 11; 34-92-721-5800; www.nh-hotels.com", faces a small square with specialty food shops and casual restaurants. Doubles from 65 euros".
"In Badajoz, the Hotel Monasterio de Rocamador, "Carretera Nacional Badajoz-Huelva, kilometer 41.100, Almendral; 34-92-448-9000; www.rocamador.com" offers quiet relaxation inside an old monastery surrounded by countryside. Rooms are spacious and decorated with handmade wood furniture. Doubles from about 100 euros".
"WHERE TO EAT".
"In Cáceres, El Figón de Eustaquio "Plaza San Juan, 12-14; 34-92-724-4362; www.elfigondeeustaquio.com", is a cozy restaurant frequented by local families. Indulge in traditional specialties like secreto Ibérico and torta del casar".
"At the Rocamador hotel’s restaurant in Badajoz, a seductive rock-walled space with large arched windows, order the thyme-perfumed suckling lamb".
"For a taste of the southwest in Madrid, book a table at Sula, "Jorge Juan 33; 34-91-781-6197; www.sula.es", a sleek haute cuisine restaurant that serves Joselito meats, including Iberian pork shoulder carpaccio".
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